Guerlain Eau de Lingerie – A Sexy Intimate Scent That Whispers

Guerlain Eau de Lingerie – A Sexy Intimate Scent That Whispers

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Guerlain has launched a new perfume called Eau de Lingerie. Being the Guerlain perfume fanatic that I am, I *had* to have this and bought it without even trying it, as I knew I would love it. And love it, I do. Here is what Guerlain says:

“Close to the skin, in the very place where fragrance settles, our lingerie lies… and this inspired Guerlain to conceive of an innovative beauty ritual. A delicate new fragrance to spray onto lingerie, creating a special moment of sensuality in which women are invited to indulge…”

kim basinger 9 half weeks

Eau de Lingerie is soft and stays close to the skin, as it was meant to blend beautifully with any other perfume or fragrance you might be wearing. I suppose I’d call it a skin scent, like a soft musk or along the lines of Prada L’Eau Ambrée. These are the kind of scents I love to layer – by doing this, I feel like I am creating a personal and unique fragrance that is only mine. Guerlain Eau de Lingerie could be described as a floral, powdery and musky scent, if one had to categorize it. It contains notes of iris, rose, vanilla, sandalwood, white musk and ambrette. Ambrette is an interesting note – it is an aromatic plant from India, known for it’s unusual scent, and it is now used to replace animal musks (not used due to the cruel methods of extracting musk oil from animals) in perfume. It has a subtle musk scent, softer than traditional “musk” perfumes, and I would even describe it as an innocent scent. Le Labo perfume house has a perfume called Ambrette, based mostly on that note and intended for babies. It does have a sweet skin scent to it, but don’t think baby powder. Frankly, Eau de Guerlain is what I wanted Le Labo Ambrette to be- the Le Labo is singular and is literally gone from my skin in less than 30 minutes. It’s ethereal and almost sparkling, like drops of rain in the sunshine. The sandalwood lingers in this perfume, and it is the stunning sandalwood of Guerlain that I recognize here. It’s almost like the it’s the spirit of the sandalwood in Guerlain Samsara but dialed way back. I know that lavender isn’t listed in Eau de Guerlain, but I would be amiss if I didn’t say Eau de Lingerie reminded me of Chanel Jersey, which I’ve been hemming and hawing about buying. Funny, as the thing I love the most about Chanel Jersey is that it reminds me of a Guerlain perfume. They share iris and musk notes so perhaps that is what I am picking up.

belle du jour bed scene lingerie

Guerlain Eau de Lingerie was love at first sniff. It is a quiet gentle perfume, and would be easy to wear anywhere without being offensive. I love it’s skin scent quality and while I might indeed spray some on my lingerie, for now I am enjoying wearing it on warm, bare skin.

Eau de Lingerie will be a 125ml limited edition, available at Harrods in London, and Printemps in Paris. I had a special shopper bring it back from Paris for me. Yes, I have a perfume mule.

Givenchy Dahlia Noir Eau de Parfum, The “Fatal Flower”

Givenchy Dahlia Noir Eau de Parfum, The “Fatal Flower”

 

Givenchy released Dahlia Noir eau de parfum in 2011, and the eau de toilette this year. I think the edp version is the richer and headier of the two, and absolutely perfect for cooler weather. It’s classified as a ” floral chypre” but I take issue with calling a perfume that has no oakmoss a chypre. However I would agree that Dahlia Noir edp is as sexy as a chypre – it makes me think of a modern version of a beauty like Ungaro Diva, one of my favourite rose chypres, or a scent like L’Arte di Gucci, and even a softer Paloma Picasso. It has been tamed and softened, and the first things you sniff are citrus, pepper and mimosa which are quite a yummy combination. Rose, iris and patchouli in the heart and finally a sultry woodsy vanilla base. Wow. The words that come to mind when I sniff Dahlia Noir edp are creamy, a bit moutwatering, sexy and pretty. The sexy is balanced by the pretty and I can see this as being the perfect perfume to dress up or dress down, as it’s the kind of scent that works with the skin of the wearer. Lovely. And, did you know Givenchy has a Dahlia Noir candle? It’s available for sale on their site for $56. I’m not sure if this is at any perfume counters, but you could ask. What a great holiday gift idea!

And – guess what? Just in time for the holidays, Daly Beauty will be giving a 50ml bottle of Givenchy Dahlia Noir eau de parfum to a lucky reader! To enter, please leave a comment on this post, follow @daly_beauty on Twitter and tweet out this post letting us know you entered! Be sure to like Daly Beauty on Facebook too! The winner will be drawn 6pm on Wednesday, December 12th, 2012.

Comments are now closed! The winner of the Dahlia Noir edp is  Jen M! Congrats Jen, send your mailing details to dalybeauty@gmail.com. Thank you to all who entered & keep reading Daly Beauty for more goodies to win!

Givenchy Dahlia Noir eau de parfum is available at The Bay perfume counters in Canada, Sephora and Nordstrom in the US. The 50ml Dahlia Noir edp starts at around $100 CAN. 

Arquiste Fleur de Louis Perfume- Royal Scent of Peace

Arquiste Fleur de Louis Perfume- Royal Scent of Peace

I was quite keen to try this perfume from the Arquiste line. Arquiste is a niche perfume house from New York, started by Carlos Huber, an architect specializing in historic restoration. The idea he had was to create perfumes that transport the wearer to evocative moments in history. He hires different perfumers, or “noses”, to create the scents. The perfumer he chose to create Fleur de Louis, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, has a very impressive list of scents in his resume , notably Tom Ford Neroli Portofino & Donna Karan Black Cashmere.

Arquiste Fleur de Louis was created to evoke the time in history, around 1660, when a marriage was arranged between Louis XIV and Maria Theresa, the Infanta of Spain. This marriage was a clause in the Treaty of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, to ensure peace between their countries. An island in the Basque region of France, Bidassoa, was declared neutral, and the prince met his bride there. They were later married in St Jean de Luz. I was amazed to read this story, as St Jean de Luz is a special place for my family. We have spent many happy times there over the years, and have attended incredible concerts in the church. We have also driven past the island on our way to Spain, noting that the young couple met there so many centuries ago. I have great love and affection for the Basque region, it’s people and it’s beautiful countryside and beaches, and many happy memories of times spent with my children on the beach in St Jean de Luz.

The church is on the left, on the walking street in St Jean de Luz, on our way to dinner….

So, Fleur de Louis has simple lovely notes that, if you close your eyes and inhale, make you think you could be standing on the shoreline of the river watching the young royals meet for the first time. From the Arquiste website:

“To ensure peace between them, two Royal Courts converge at a richly-appointed pavilion built of freshly cut Pine and Cedar wood. From the French side, in a golden aura of Iris, Rose and Jasmine, emerges a young Louis XIV, all starched and composed, eager to catch a glimpse of his new bride, the Infanta Maria Teresa…”

St Jean de Luz beach at sunset, with Pyrenees mountains in the distance…the view from our balcony.

So the simply lovely notes of iris, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, white pine and cedar make Fleur de Louis an elegant and classic beauty. The florals are beautifully blended and quite soft, with a gentle woodsy musk in the drydown. It wears as a sweet skin scent, and I think it would appeal to a lover of soft florals. The Arquiste bottles are elegant and modern, yet have a classical feel to the script. They have a lovely weight to them, and would look elegant on any nightstand. I plan to review a few more….

Arquiste perfumes are available at select Holt Renfrew stores in Canada. You can find a local stockist here, or shop online.

Iris in Perfume: Refined, Relaxed and Calm…

Iris in Perfume: Refined, Relaxed and Calm…

I love iris. It can be a challenging scent, and not every iris perfume is for every lover of iris. It can smell like dirt, paper (Hermes Hiris!) or even a bit medicinal if it isn’t blended with notes that make it sing on the wearer’s skin. Because you know now that everyone wears every perfume differently, right? That we all “cook” the scent in a different way, depending on so many things. Our skin type (dry vs oily) our internal temperature (you know how some people are just warm? Or always cold?), what we eat, how we sweat etc etc etc. I wrote about my number one gorgeous iris scent, Guerlain Après L’Ondée, which is mixed with violets and heliotropin for a soft powdery sweetness. Some others I have enjoyed are Le Labo Iris 39, which is the definition of a rich and sensual iris, with the iris note being propped up by the earthiness of patchouli- which also makes it easy for a man to wear. Guerlain Iris Ganache is the gourmande delicious iris, with notes of white chocolate, musk and vanilla making you smell like edible iris. Yummy. The one that really works for me when I crave simple unadorned iris, however, is Chanel 28 la Pausa.

 

Roquebrune, Cap Martin 

Chanel 28 la Pausa is part of the Chanel Exclusif line, which is sold at Chanel Boutiques and at some special Chanel counters in certain department stores. I have not been able to find a list of “notes” on line, which is ok actually. In most cases, the notes listed for perfumes aren’t actually the actual notes, but more of an approximation of what the designer is trying to convey. Or, more often, they are basically ad copy disguised as legitimate information. Chanel 28 la Pausa simply smells beautiful, which isn’t surprising given that Chanel has access to some of the finest perfume ingredients in the world. Every note is perfect. 28 la Pausa is named after the address of Mademoiselle Chanel’s estate on the French Riviera outside Roquebrune Cap Martin. She would holiday there, often surrounded by luminaries of the time: the Duke of Westminster, Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. From Chanel’s site:

“28 la Pausa is a scent full of contrasts — radiant yet delicate, simple yet luxurious, earthy yet powdery — with a tranquil, soothing character.”

 

 What do I smell? Hm. Let’s see. On the top, I get some gentle fruit notes. Citrus? Maybe a bit of a tart lime note but it is definitely more green than fruity. Earthy vetiver, for sure. Chanel knows vetiver, and there are hints of all her perfumes in, well, all her perfumes. The distinct vetiver note from Chanel Sycamore (another Exclusif) is here, but it is softened by the powdery aspect they have coaxed from the iris. It is cool, but not cold, as some iris scents can be. Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is a frigid example of a cold iris. Brrrr.  No, the cool feeling in 28 la Pausa is soothing and calming, like meditation. I almost think I smell a white tea like scent in here, but who knows. It’s probably a delicious musk, some kind of perfume illusion cast by Chanel’s perfumer, Jacques Polge. Whatever it is, I adore it. And there it is- that earthy sensual iris note we love so much. It’s not sensual in the carnal way jasmine and tuberose are, but more of a smoldering quiet sensuality. And luckily for me, la Pausa lasts hours and hours on my skin, which is made for perfumes that many find fleeting. 

 

 

It is cooling and soothing, and does indeed make one feel relaxed and refined. It smells like clean skin, but with an oh so subtle undertone of sophisticated sensuality. Perhaps it is the iris combined with whatever magical musk note Chanel has cooked up in their labs? It smells like skin, freshly showered skin, sitting in a cool ocean breeze, with perhaps a light silk scarf draped across your shoulders. Cool, silky and smooth. Yes, I will have another G & T please.

The new 75ml Exlusif bottle

In the past, you could only get the Exclusifs in honking 200ml bottles. They are gorgeous bottles, with a simple Chanel design and the most genius magnetic cap that always sits just right with the conjoined Chanel Cs sitting just as they should. But, now most of the Exlusifs are available in a 75ml bottle.

Guerlain Apres L’Ondee…. Perfume For After The Rain

Guerlain Apres L’Ondee…. Perfume For After The Rain

Guerlain Apres L'Ondee eau de toilette

It’s been raining a lot lately. You know, those heavy, ozonic rain storms.  They only come after intense heat and humidity, when you can barely see a few feet ahead, there is such a deluge. So of course, this brings to mind a perfume, and of course, that perfume is Guerlain Après L’Ondée. Après L’Ondée translates more or less to “after the rain shower” and was created in 1906 by Jacques Guerlain. It has often been called “heartbreakingly beautiful” by those who wear it. Some so much that they simply can’t wear it- it makes them too sad. I adore it, maybe because it feels therapeutic to  wear a perfume that can evoke such emotion. Jacques Guerlain himself has said “I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume”. Are we feeling what he felt in 1906? Maybe…

Apollo Fountain Versailles Dusk

Après L’Ondée does to perfume notes what watercolours do to art. You can almost see the light coming out after the rain, you can practically feel it.  Guerlain calls it “a perfume of absolute romance”. When I wear it, I can almost see Monet’s Les Nymphéas (Water Lilies), with their almost ethereal blues and purples and that feeling of cool fresh water.

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Iris butter (from iris rhizome/root) is one the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world…

I love the cool earthy and buttery iris combined with the most delicately sweet and green violet, both of which are wrapped in the gentle powdery vanillic heliotropin that only Guerlain can do. I also notice a delicious anise note, which is kept from being too sweet or “licorice-y” by a whisper of gently soapy carnation and jasmine. Oh, to be sure there are other notes, but they are so masterfully blended I can’t really discern them.
Violets France

Sweetness and innocence in a flower – violets

Many complain that Après L’Ondée is also heartbreaking in that it’s magical beauty doesn’t linger long enough on their skin. Luckily, my skin wears this perfume perfectly, and from the first second I sniffed it, I loved it.  It does make me feel sad, but in a good way, the way a good cry during a sad movie does. It smells like a lush closed garden, at dusk, after a heavy downpour, when the flowers are heavy with water and weighed down, and air is still slightly electric, like the rain could come down again at any moment. Perfect.

Guerlain Apres l’Ondee eau de toilette in the 100ml bee bottle is available from Guerlain Boutiques. Some department stores in the US with comprehensive Guerlain counters also carry it.

Guerlain Jicky is…Beautiful

Guerlain Jicky is…Beautiful

How does one review the oldest perfume still in production? Especially when you love it dearly. I will try…carefully and with respect. Created by Aime Guerlain in 1889 there are a couple stories that surround the inspiration of Jicky. One is that he created it for an English girlfriend he had- this sounds very romantic and knowing the Guerlain men did create fragrances inspired by women seems possible. Jacques Guerlain, Aime’s uncle, once said, “ I felt something so intense I could only express it in a perfume”. But, this same uncle was also known by the nickname of Jicky so it seems more likely he was the inspiration for the scent. Love is a more romantic inspiration but I think everything about Guerlain perfumes are romantic. Before Jicky, perfumes were soliflores, perfume waters that featured a single flower like rosewater, violet and the like. Floral scents that were light and as simple as the flowers themselves were in nature. Jicky changed all of that by incorporating unusual spices and some synthetic ingredients and turning perfumery upside down.

Jicky is not a perfume for lightweights, but that doesn’t mean it is strong. At least not in an 80s heavyweight perfume way of strong. On the contrary, it sinks into the skin and becomes part of the wearer. It smells old world and modern at the same time. The “old world” part may present a challenge to some wearers. The lavender and citrus top notes feel clean & classic in an eau de cologne kind of way but the twist that makes Jicky so incredible comes along and everything changes. The lavender is rich and oh so French smelling, so if you are a lover of the fruity floral scents that line the perfume counters and shelves these days, Jicky is not for you. Its a green and herbal lavender, the herbs could be Herbes de Provence…..so it’s not a sweet lavender at all, and its coupled with a bright and tart citrus note. Just when you think you are wearing a soapy clean simple lavender scent, the classic Guerlain tonka and vanilla begin to waft up and ground that airy top note, warming it with a touch of sweetness. Opoponax (sweet myrrh) adds a resinous warmth akin to incense without the smoke. The warmth is an olfactory illusion though, because a cool earthy iris swoops in and then BAM! everything gets ethereal from that point on.
The real magic in Jicky comes from the civet. Civet is a glandular secretion from the civet cat which has a strong scent that is a weird balance of fecal and floral. When it is purified (in the case of natural civet, although I would imagine synthetic civet is used more frequently these days) the scent reveals a deeply feminine floral scent. Civet is used to enhance scent and as a fixative. It can be an acquired scent taste as well as some may be anosmic to it, as I was. For that reason it was years before I “got” Jicky and no longer found it kind of boring. Better I suppose than my dear friend Vicki who only gets “cat bum” from it YIKES! Civet is one of those tricky notes. You either love it, hate it or can’t smell it. And, you can learn to love it, like an acquired taste. For me, on that fateful day at the Guerlain counter, it was sudden love. After years of not smelling it, I decided to give it a go. I tried the eau de toilette (Guerlain perfumes are notorious for smelling quite different in different concentrations) and suddenly the lavender, citrus, herbal, iris, vanilla, tonka cocktail became 3D and I LOVED it. How could I have missed this? How did I not smell iris in this before? Vanilla? Wow. Then, I tried the eau de parfum…..heaven in a bottle. The sweet and dark femininity of Jicky becomes richer as the perfume concentration intensifies. I think a man could wear the eau de toilette quite easily but it’s not enough for me…..now I have my eye on a bottle of the pure parfum…..
Jicky transcends seasons. It is perfect on a hot summer day, the lavender and citrus cooling and soothing. On a cool breezy day the vanilla tonka combination becomes cozy. As with most of the Guerlain masterpieces though, I find Jicky is most perfect on an “imperfect” day. On a gloomy day, or even better, on a stormy day, with menacing clouds that make me feel a bit dark and melancholy. Guerlain takes poetry and makes it scent.
If I was a synaesthete I would say Jicky smells like rich, dark purple velvet. Now, doesn’t that sound beautiful?